Hiking the Fonias River Up to the Kleidosi Waterfall

Fonias is the most famous and important river in Samothraki, and is also the longest in the northern part of the island. It has its sources in the highlands of Mount Saos, under the peaks of Louloudi, Amoni, and Koufouklio. The streams that start at heights of 1000-1400m gather their waters and, at about 700m, in the area known as Karya, give rise to the Fonias Canyon, with impressive granite slides. The river has water all year round and creates some of the most beautiful waterfalls and vathres (natural pools) in its flow through Samothraki. It flows into the sea east of Therma, forming Fonias Beach.

The word fonias translates as "killer". It is said that the river got its name after heavy rains, when it becomes so fast and turbulent that it destroys everything in its path, killing people and animals. Fonias also gives its name to the medieval tower located near its mouth, and to the craft beer produced in Samothraki - Fonias Pale Ale.

The Fonias-Gerania-Kleidosi Waterfalls Trail

The route to the vathres (natural pools) and waterfalls on the lower course of the Fonias River is the most famous and most frequented in Samothraki. The first vathres are easily accessible, and during the summer, the river valley fills with people.

The starting point of the route is on the north side of the island, about 5 km after Therma, as you head towards Kipos Beach. After crossing the bridge over Fonias, you will see on the left side of the road the tavern I Gefyra tou Fonia (which literally translates as "Fonias' Bridge"), and on the right side a parking lot under the trees. In spring and autumn there are enough places, but in July and August the parking lot becomes cramped, and cars are often left on the side of the road.

Fonias Waterfall

The trail to the first waterfall of the Fonias River is very easy and suitable even for children. It is more of a walk that takes you, without significant differences in level, on the left side of the valley, through a forest that seems to come out of childhood fairy tales. It's the enchanted forest, with secular plane trees that have their roots among the rocks, with hollow trunks and twisted branches giving rise to strange shapes. Some say that the place is charged with a lot of energy, which is why the trees grow so strangely.

From time to time, the river forms great swimming spots with small sandy areas. Transparent, electric blue dragonflies circle you and sometimes allow themselves to be photographed, sitting on your hand. In places, the vegetation is dense, the path passes through tall ferns, and the landscape resembles a jungle.

The trail is marked with a red dot and follows the path along the river valley. At one point, after about 30 minutes of walking at an easy pace, you will have to navigate a section right next to the river, climbing over some rocks.

At the end of the trail, hidden by a rocky surface, is one of the largest and deepest vathres (pools) on the island, with a diameter of about 30m, located at the end of the Fonias Canyon.

To see the waterfall properly, you will have to cross the river and climb a steeper slope, from where you will see the almost 15-meter-high waterfall on the opposite side, in all its splendor.

The route, about 1.7 km long, can be covered in about half an hour of brisk walking, or 45 minutes to 1 hour of leisurely walking, with stops for photos and admiring the scenery.

There is also a (partially marked) option that makes a detour, moving away from the river valley for a while to the left, passing by the ruins of an ancient settlement and later returning to the original route, a few minutes before the waterfall.

Gerania Waterfall

The path to Gerania is not long (about 500m), but it is a little more difficult due to the difference in level.

After crossing the river, continue to climb steeply up the slope from where you can admire the Fonias Waterfall. The path moves away from the canyon and after a few minutes becomes smoother, turning to the left. The view opens up to the northern shore of the island, and you can see how the vegetation reaches the sea.

At a certain point (about 10 minutes after you started this section of the trail) some red arrows painted on the rocks will indicate a path to the right, towards the Kleidosi Waterfall. However, to reach Gerania, keep going forward, then descend towards the canyon. A paradisiacal landscape, with an exotic flavor, will appear before your eyes. A waterfall (also nicknamed the "Nudist Waterfall") flows into a wide vathra (pool), with green and clear waters, surrounded by steep cliffs and plane trees. It is one of the most beautiful places on the island.

Going down a bit along the river, you can admire other small waterfalls and the rocky bed where Fonias has carved its way through. You are now in the area just above Fonias Waterfall.

Walking time from the first waterfall to Gerania: 20-30 minutes.

From here you can either go back the way you came or continue towards Kleidosi. There is also an alternative return route (a steep climb through the rocky area to the right) that will take you to the ruins of the ancient settlement and then to the parking lot where you started.

There is also an alternative route that requires you to go right from the bridge on the main road, with the river on your lower left. In approx. 40 minutes you will come out directly above the climb to the first waterfall, and from there you can continue to Gerania or Kleidosi.

Kleidosi Waterfall

Compared to the route to the first waterfalls on Fonias, the road to Kleidosi is longer and has some areas that require more attention.

From Gerania, turn back to the intersection where the arrow to Kleidosi is painted on the rocks. From here the path climbs steeply for about 20 minutes and then follows the contour line. You need to pay attention to the red dots drawn on the rocks or trees.

The road passes through trees with evergreen leaves and smooth white trunks, visible as their reddish bark peels away. They are arbutus unedo (strawberry trees) and arbutus andrachne (Greek strawberry trees). If you walk along the route in autumn, in addition to the decorative appearance of the trunk, you will also notice the deep red fruits. From them, the inhabitants of Samothraki make jams and liqueurs (ask about koumari liqueur).

From time to time, the path emerges into gaps that offer you a beautiful view of the sea and the Fonias Canyon. There are also a few slightly more difficult passages, which require careful navigation.

In about 45 minutes from the time you started climbing (from the arrows), you will find yourself back in the river valley. You can stop for a while here or explore it, discovering small vathres and waterfalls.

To reach Kleidosi, cross the river and continue up the steep hill. After 15-20 minutes, at an altitude of 260-270m, you will see a glimpse of the waterfall. To get a better perspective, you will have to climb a little more, carefully (there are no more markings).

Kleidosi is the highest waterfall on the island (except, of course, the Kremastos Waterfall, which you can admire during boat trips) and one of the most beautiful in Samothraki. You can't see all of it - of the 75 meters it measures, only 35 are visible. The name Kleidosi is derived from the verb kleidono, which means "to lock"; it refers to a closed place, where the walls of the canyon tighten and only let the waters of the waterfall pass through. It is also called kleidi ("key") or kremasi (from the verb kremao - "to hang"). After crashing with a roar, the waters of the Fonias River turn to the left at a 90-degree angle, giving rise to a magnificent succession of waterfalls.

If you usually encounter a lot of people at the first waterfalls, at Kleidosi you will find very few people, and often you will have the beauty of the place all to yourself.

The duration of the route is about 1 hour from the red arrow, or about 1h 45min from the parking lot by the road (without passing by Gerania).

Recommendations

Equip yourself appropriately! Even if you encounter people on the route in flip-flops or barefoot, it is recommended to wear hiking shoes or sturdy footwear, which will protect you from stones and prevent you from slipping on rocks, on the sections covered with dry leaves, or on the dusty ground. I have seen (more than once) people who did not have the right equipment and who had suffered accidents on the route.

Also, take water with you and a cap or hat to protect you from the scorching sun when the path leaves the forest.

If you're not a fan of nudism (but expect to see a lot of naked people!), bring your swimsuit - after all, a refreshing dip in the water of the vathres is one of the must-try experiences in Samothraki!

Don't venture higher than Gerania if you're not used to the mountains and especially the mountains of Samothraki!

On your way back from the trail, you can stop at the taverna across the road from the parking lot, I Gefyra tou Fonia. It's in a large courtyard with tall plane trees and hydrangeas, with hammocks and colorful decorations hanging from the trees. During the summer, it's open from morning until night and is famous for its omelette with cheese, sausage, peppers, and… fried potatoes.